If you're looking for a bow, it's essential to have your situation in mind. Are you heading for a competition, want to do it recreationally, or maybe go hunting? Heading to the pro shop to pick out a new bow may feel overwhelming if you're a first-time buyer.. Which brand should you choose? What draw weight is best? If you want to buy archery bows, here's what to have in mind.
Consider Your Archery Goals
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| source: venturehunting.com.au |
When shopping for a new bow, it’s important to start by identifying your archery goals. Are you planning to shoot casually in your backyard, compete in 3D shoots or indoor leagues, or take up bowhunting? Maybe it’s a combination of all three. Sharing your short- and long-term goals helps your archery shop recommend the right setup to grow with you.
Next, think about the type of bow that suits you best: compound, recurve, longbow, or crossbow. Each has unique features and benefits depending on your experience and interests. For example, a takedown recurve with ILF fittings offers flexibility to adjust draw weight as your skills develop, making it ideal for beginners with future hunting aspirations. If you’re eyeing competitions, a longer axle-to-axle compound bow with a manageable draw weight might be the right choice for both comfort and precision.
Here's How to Choose
Find the Perfect Fit for You
Testing different bows is one of the most important and enjoyable parts of the buying process. The more bows you shoot, the better your understanding will be of what feels best in your hands. Take your time with each bow. This isn’t a race. Shoot each bow multiple times and pay close attention to how it feels. Clear your mind between shots and focus on the characteristics of the bow in your hand. Does it feel comfortable to hold? Does the draw cycle feel smooth and manageable? Does the shot feel clean and balanced?
Shoot at Your Actual Draw Weight
Before you buy archery bows, don't test them at a weight that's too light or too heavy just because it’s easier for demo purposes. Shoot each bow at the poundage you plan to use at home. You don’t want to fall in love with a bow at 27kg, only to find that it feels completely different or unmanageable at 31kg. Consistency in setup ensures that what you feel during your test shoot matches your real-world use.
What to Look for While Shooting
As you try each bow, there are specific things you’ll want to evaluate: the grip, draw cycle, valley, back wall, and hand shock. These elements all contribute to how a bow feels during the shot process and can make or break your shooting experience. Let’s break them down.
Grips
The grip is your physical connection to the archery bow, so it plays a critical role in comfort and consistency. Ironically, you don’t actually “grip” the bow in the sense of squeezing it tightly; doing so can introduce torque and throw off your aim. Instead, the grip should sit naturally and securely in the “lifeline” of your palm, just below the thumb pad. Every bow manufacturer designs their grips a little differently. Some are wider, some narrower, and some contoured for a more ergonomic fit. Try each one and take note of how it balances in your hand.
Draw Cycle
The draw cycle is the motion you go through from the moment you start drawing the string until you reach full draw and settle into the back wall. A smooth, consistent draw cycle is especially important if you’re going to be hunting and may need to draw slowly on a live animal.
Most of what you’ll feel during the draw cycle comes from the bow’s cam system. Aggressive cams, which are designed for speed, often result in a stiffer, more sudden draw. Softer cams, on the other hand, tend to produce a smoother, more comfortable draw, though usually at the cost of arrow velocity.
The Valley and Back Wall
The valley is the point in the draw cycle where let-off begins, where the cams start to take the weight off your draw. A shallow valley provides very little “float” at full draw and keeps your muscles actively engaged. This can be preferred by target archers or hunters who want tighter control and better shot execution.
A deep valley, on the other hand, allows the shooter to relax more fully at full draw, which can be helpful when you need to hold your bow drawn for a long period, such as when an animal is slow to present a shot opportunity. The depth of the valley determines how much room you have to “float” before the bow wants to snap forward into the shot.
The back wall is where your draw cycle ends. Some bows have soft back walls, where there’s still some give or movement. Others have hard, solid stops that create a firm, definitive end to the draw. Many shooters prefer a hard back wall for its stability; it gives you something to pull against, which can help with consistency and confidence during aiming.
Hand Shock
Hand shock refers to the vibration or jolt that’s transferred into your hand when the arrow is released. Some bows absorb this energy well, resulting in a shot that feels “dead in hand”—smooth, quiet, and stable. Others may transfer more shock and feel jumpy or loud.
Hand shock is especially important for hunters. A bow that kicks hard or vibrates after every shot can be distracting, fatiguing, and even painful during long shooting sessions. More importantly, excess vibration can cause you to anticipate the shot and tighten your grip, which often leads
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